Exchange Students’ Dinner

This past Friday night the international students gathered once again at our usual place, The Rat and Parrot, for our last “official” dinner together before we begin going our separate ways.  Whether we’re leaving Grahamstown for home or more travel in less than a week or three, it was fitting to have us all together one more time.  We’ve formed a solid group, maintaining the friendships we formed in the very first week living together in Matthews Hall, and there’s no better place than the Rat, Grahamstown’s most famous haunt, to celebrate our time at Rhodes.

 

Life in Gtown

Life in Grahamstown since September vac has settled back into the school routine, but since the week away I’ve definitely gained a new appreciation for Rhodes as my home in South Africa, even if only for a few months.  Only three weeks of classes remain, so lots of end-of-term deadlines are quickly approaching; soon it will be time to begin studying for exams!  In the meantime, we are finding our leisure time filled with two-for-one pizza and pasta specials at various restaurants on Tuesday nights and trips to Steers (a fast food burger place) for vanilla soft serve–turns out that ice cream shops aren’t near as popular here as at home!  Another procrastination tool is DC Plus, a file-sharing site through the Rhodes network that provides access to just about anything multimedia, from music and ebooks to new TV episodes and movies galore.

Township Walk

The university system in South Africa of course has its differences from that of the United States, but the similarities are clear: I attend classes, write papers, and study for exams.  One course, however, has its students buzzing and pushes the boundaries of my comfort zone every day.

Joy, the lecturer for my anthropology class on Power and Wealth, has challenged us to take control of the course and our own education.  She doesn’t give us lecture notes, she doesn’t assign weekly readings.  We bow to each other at the beginning of every class to recognize each other’s knowledge and perspectives.  We have discussions ranging from the feminization of poverty to the recent Student Representative Council elections on campus to racism in South Africa.  Someone posts on the class Facebook page almost daily.

Last week Joy took us in small groups for a walk through the local township.  Although the township is visible from campus, it is sometimes easy to forget that there is life in Grahamstown outside of the dining halls and the library and weekend nightlife.  As we walked down the dirt streets she pointed out that even from across town one could see the 1820s Settler’s Monument, an imposing gray building, a testament to colonization and the resulting oppression that the Africans faced.  Giant metal light poles still tower over the concrete block shanties, left over from the days of apartheid when they were used as searchlights. Almost everyone living in the township is black, a social division that has not been corrected since the legalized separation of whites, blacks, coloureds, and Indians.

Some houses do not have running water but have unique front doors that personalize them from their neighbors.  Vibrant flowers transform a front yard into an oasis of beauty amidst the trash scattered along the roadside.  Joy bought a loaf of bread for a woman who smelled of home-brewed alcohol.  A man hoed rows of potatoes and spinach.  We met an older couple who care for a teenage girl whose parents died from AIDS.  Children gathered around us smiling and giggling, posing for photographs and singing the national anthem.

I worried about the tactfulness of our visit, as wealthy university students come to gawk at another’s poverty, but one man told us he was happy we were there with our cameras because we could take their stories back across the railroad tracks and get help for them.  As we returned to campus, Joy encouraged us to write a short reflection on the afternoon and challenged us not to shower until the next day–washing the body washes away the experience, she said.  Allowing the experience to stay with us and affect our daily lives is a new challenge.

*This post is also published on The Global You as my second contribution to the Interstudy blog.

Arrival and Orientation

Hello from South Africa!  I’ve only been here for a week, but it has been a challenge to condense my experiences enough to write this post in a cohesive and intelligible manner!

My flights were fairly uneventful, although I did use the time as a chance to catch up on my pop culture and watch The Hunger Games.  On the flight to Port Elizabeth I met three other American girls also heading to Rhodes for the semester, and thankfully my bags made it through the various airports unscathed.

There are 18 international students here at Rhodes for the semester, as well as a few who are returning from last semester.  About half of us are from the United States, from Oregon to Boston, and the other half represents England, France, Germany, the Netherlands, Italy, and Australia.  During orientation week we all lived together in one of the male residences, but this morning moved into our permanent res’s.  There are two other international girls living with me in Hobson House.  We have all been enjoying getting to know each other and learning about each other’s cultures; we have lots of conversations comparing our school systems, foods, and even politics.  One of the European girls was very pleased to learn that I am in a sorority, and said her friends will also be excited when she tells them, as Greek life is a novelty from American movies and television!

Most of this week was basic orientation stuff, from presentations on Grahamstown’s history to meetings with various academic departments to discuss course registration.  A highlight, however, was the trip to Addo Elephant National Park that was planned by Interstudy.  Addo is about an hour’s drive from Grahamstown, and as we passed various game reserves we were excited to see ostriches, elephants, antelope, a rhino, and monkeys!  Once in the park we were taken on a two-hour game drive, during which we had the opportunity to see many elephants, kudu, zebra, black-backed jackals, warthogs, and several types of birds.  It was an amazing experience, and a great way to kick off my semester in South Africa.

Another important experience was the township tour.  South Africa has the greatest inequality between the wealthy and the poor of any country in the world, so seeing both sides of Grahamstown is a necessity.  The entirety of the city can be seen from the 1820‘s Settlers’ Monument overlooking the valley, and there are stark contrasts between the wealthy and poor areas.  In the wealthy neighborhoods, where Rhodes is located, one regularly sees adolescents of all ages walking through town wearing the uniforms of various private schools, whereas in the township, just a few miles away, some houses are without running water and, after last weekend’s storms, even parts of their roofs.  Our guide, who had us walk through areas of the township and eat a traditional Xhosa lunch, assured us that the locals would be glad to see us taking an interest in their environment, but it did feel a bit like we, as white tourists, were treating them like zoo animals.

Fast Facts

As the clock continues to count down to my impending departure, I thought I’d share some basic information about where I’ll be spending the next few months.

The Republic of South Africa has 9 provinces and 11 official languages.  Its current democratic government was implemented in 1994, ending the era of apartheid.  SAST (South Africa Standard Time) is 7 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time but doesn’t observe Daylight Savings Time like we do in the US, so until November I will be 6 hours ahead of the US East Coast.  The currency is the rand; the current exchange rate is approximately 1 US dollar to 8 rand.  As the country is in the southern hemisphere, the seasons are opposite what we in the US are used to; when I arrive in July it will be winter, and when I leave it will be summer.

Grahamstown is located in the Eastern Province, in an area known as Frontier Country.  It is also known as the City of Saints because of its many churches and other religious buildings.  As of 2003 the city population was just over 40,000.  It is known for holding the National Arts Festival, the largest festival of its type in the country, each June/July.

Rhodes University is one of the oldest universities in South Africa, as it was founded in 1904.  It has a population of about 6,000 students, approximately 20% of which are international students (mostly from neighboring countries in southern Africa).  I will be enrolled in the second semester of the 2012 school year, which encompasses the third and fourth terms; classes begin July 23 and end October 26, final exams are held November 3-30.  The terms are divided by a week-long break in September.

Sail Away

Welcome to my blog!  The title is a tribute to my upcoming semester at Rhodes University in Grahamstown, South Africa.  This entry was inspired by this Mark Twain quote:

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”

I try to apply this philosophy to my everyday life, but it is even more relevant as I prepare to go abroad.  Exactly one month from today I will be on a plane en route from New York, USA to Johannesburg, SA.  This will be my first time abroad for more than a week and by myself, and I am both nervous and excited!